Match of the week

Champagne and monkfish liver
OK, I appreciate this is a bit left-field but I was given some monkfish liver to try by Bristol fishmonger, Bristol Fish and also had a bottle of Aldi’s Easter champagne promotion to taste and they went brilliantly together. Often the best pairings come about by accident.
Sam of Bristol Fish maintains that monkfish liver is a kind alternative to foie gras and he’s right in one respect and wrong in another. Obviously it’s kinder - you can’t force feed a monkfish - but it’s not *quite* as smooth and unctious as the real thing which I still occasionally regret deciding not to eat any more.
It IS very good though. We cooked it in a pan with butter then once we’d removed the liver, added a bit more butter to the pan to sizzle up, added a squeeze of lemon and poured it over. Not a pretty picture but utterly delicious with a delicate and not particularly fishy taste and soft, melting texture - perhaps more like sweetbreads than foie gras
You can read about a rather more sophisticated way of serving it here and here - the Japanese call it Ankimo.
The champagne, which offset its richness perfectly, was a Champagne Philizot blanc de noirs which Aldi is promoting this Easter. I wouldn’t say it’s the finest example of a blanc de noirs I’ve ever tasted but it’s only £17.99, beautifully (and rather cheekily) packaged in Fortnum & Mason blue and would make the most fantastic gift for anyone you were seeing for Easter.
And you don’t necessarily have to eat monkfish liver to enjoy it!

Louis Roederer Brut with a truffle cheese toastie
This match last week at 45 Jermyn St had EVERYTHING going for it starting with a decadent toasted cheese sandwich lavishly scattered with grated white truffle. What could be better? Well, actually a glass of very decent champagne (Louis Roederer Brut premier) with it - one of those matches made in heaven where the whole is better than the sum of the parts.
The entire experience which I suggest is the ultimate Christmas shopping treat isn’t cheap of course - £26.50 for the sandwich, another £12.50 for the fizz plus service which is likely to take you over the £50 mark for what is basically a snack. But frankly I’d rather pay that to sit in 45’s immensely glamorous dining room for a couple of hours than have a dull Christmas lunch elsewhere.
You could pull off a more affordable version at home by anointing the cheese in your toastie with a drizzle of truffle oil before you grill it and serving it with a glass of cut price fizz. (Sainsbury’s Blanc de Noirs is currently selling for £16 with a further 25% off if you buy 6 bottles in total - not all of which have to be champagne)
(45 Jermyn St is part of Fortnum & Mason btw so you have the added pleasure of looking at their fabulously glittery windows.)
Disclosure. As it happened I was treated but I went fully intending to pay.
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